The intent of the care, and information sheets on this site is to provide you with my own personal experiences with keeping and breeding. I will never advocate the collecting or keeping of these animals as "pets". It requires a serious commitment to personal education, and a scientific attitude towards research, in order to properly house, and care for these animals.  Where ever I have included information from other sources, I have attempted to provide the appropriate reference. These references are listed at the bottom of each page.
*Click on any blue italicized word, and it will take you to a linked photo or document*
Leopard Tortoise - The scientific name for the world's fourth largest tortoise is Geochelone paradalis babcocki. That's a mouthful for such a personable creature of the wild. This has become a very popular species over the past ten years for this very reason, and is now readily bred in captivity. They have the most striking shell coloration, and design of all the large tortoises, and most of the rest as well. While having their special needs as another animal from the African desert, and Savannah's, they pale by comparison to the housing needs as this animal reaches maturity. While it will take many years to reach  it's adult size, you will still have to deal with it as a keeper of this beautiful tortoise. Fully grown it will reach up to twenty inches in diameter, although fifteen inches is most typical, and weigh in at thirty pounds as a full grown adult (they have weighed in a whopping 90 plus pounds). Certainly a serious consideration when eyeing that beautiful little baby Leopard Tortoise for the first time. I have had the joy of hatching my, now eight year old Leopard Tortoise, that I have named "Speedy", and watching him grow. Everyone, sooner or later, that gets into keeping tortoises will inevitably name one of their favorites "Speedy". You just can't resist the temptation!
These herbivores have a great appetite, and will benefit from your providing a varied diet of vegetation on a daily basis. Focus on the healthiest of vegetables, and minimize the cabbage, and broccoli, and cauliflower (see the Blue Tongue Skinks for details on these vegetables in reptile diets}. An addition to their diet that differs form the Blue Tongue Skink is lettuce. Not Ice Berg lettuce, which has virtually no nutritional value, but Red Leaf lettuce. It is the most nutritional of the leaf lettuces available in your local grocery store, while providing a source for the need moisture. Calcium, and vitamin supplements will be a must on a regular basis. While this is the most viable of the larger tortoises to be kept solely indoors, it will benefit from all the exposure to the natural rays of the sun that you can provide it. There are a number of good books that I have referenced below that can be studied for all of the diet, and housing information that you will require for keeping this animal. It's a serious long term commitment to decide to bring one of these animals into your home. You will be it's keeper and provider for as long as twenty-five, to thirty years or longer! They have proven to be very adaptable to moderate climates, but will tax your keeper skills when in comes to qualified space to live in year round.

Red Foot Tortoise - The Scientific name for this extremely personable animal is Geochelone carbonaria. While all the typical animal husbandry practices apply for this Geochelone species one geographical origin fact needs to be placed in to the housekeeping routine. Their natural habitat is the rainforest of central South America. You will need to have a source of water as a minimum available at all times to maintain a healthy specimen. They are vegetarians, and as with all reptiles that are herbivores, variety is the key to a healthy animal. This is one of the medium size Tortoises that is readily available as captive bred reaching a typical adult size of fourteen to sixteen inches in diameter in about four years. They have no fear of human contact, and can be maintained in a medium size Vivarium (the twenty gallon size aquarium will work well for the first few years, until their size dictates larger living quarters.) Moderate temperatures, with a warm section in their habitat and a place to go hide will keep them happy. A twelve to fifteen hour photo period using a fluorescent reptile UV bulb will provide the proper light source for a healthy animal. Any exposure to direct sunlight will be a bonus. 

Russian Tortoise - Scientific name Testudfo horsfieldi, is seldom found captive bred, and readily available in the "pet" trade wild caught. Juveniles, and adults alike are imported for the retail trade. Hopefully, some serious efforts to reproduce these likeable Tortoises in captivity will continue to escalate. Unfortunately, so many are currently being imported that there isn't much economic incentive to breed these animals to date. This needs to change before it's too late for another animal. With proper husbandry these animals can be maintained in captivity. I have a pair, as in two, of these tortoises, but not a pair, as in male, and female. Unfortunately mine have proven to be two males. Like the Tortoises above this species is a herbivore too. They have a need in their Vivarium to borrow. This animals native habitat is the Steppes of southern Russia and extending eastward toward China. The climate in this region of the world lends itself to hibernation. There are theories to the longevity of Testudines on the issue of hibernation in captivity. I can not in good conscience dispel this need in many Tortoises of this region of the world. Duplicating these conditions in captivity is currently an issue of debate. The ability to hibernate a Tortoises in captivity on a regular basis is extremely difficult to accomplish safely. We are not dealing with the phenomena of aestivating a reptile, but truly hibernating a reptile. This process is very is risky under the best of circumstances.  I have made the personal choice not to attempt to hibernate my animals, but to provide them with a substrate deep enough for borrowing, along with a temperature drop for the winter months. If you approach this species on a serious basis as a herpetologist, you will have to deal with this issue on your own terms. Be sure to research this animal all you can if you choose to keep this species in captivity. The process of hibernation is discussed at length in several of the publications listed below.

Mexican Red Leg - Scientific name Brachypelma smithi, is not only one of the more popular species among Tarantula keepers, it is also very hardy, and easily kept. It can handle temperatures above 70 degrees on a regular basis, yet can also tolerate temperatures below 70 degrees for short periods of time. Typical food of an occasional cricket will do just nicely. Keeping a water source in the form of a piece of untreated sponge cut to fit in a small bottle cap will round out the nutritional needs. Many people have an automatic reaction to spiders. It can only be characterized as dislike. I have to admit that I began looking at Tarantulas in this same way. I was lucky enough to come across and individual who was not only a keeper, and breeder of these fascinating creatures, but was also very aware of the normal reaction of most people to these Arachnidae (not insects, mind you. They are in the class of Insecta.)  He took the time to apply the "magic formula". Simply put, a little knowledge is a wonderful thing! Once I began to understand them, they became increasingly fascinating. I now have five of these easy to keep animals. In fact, I would characterize these animals as the "perfect pet", if you can handle the spider thing. They need very little space to live their entire life. They have a totally biodegradable waste (no cage cleaning? Well, only a little house cleaning once in a while. I do it only on an annual basis!), and feeding is only needed every few weeks. Perfect! Well, pretty close for an animal.
These are eight legged creatures, that also have eight eyes clustered on the top of their head (not exactly a head, but called the cephalothorax. These eyes are located in, or on, an eye turret. These eyes, however, are virtually useless, and can barely distinguish light form dark. The legs and body are covered with tiny hairs, and are extremely sensitive to movement. They are quick to sense food, and will usually move to it immediately. They inject their prey with with toxic venom that actually dissolves the food, which is then taken in as a liquid. The outer covering of the Tarantula is an exoskeleton. This means as the Tarantula grows, it will periodically shed this exoskeleton. Don't be alarmed if you happen to view a Tarantula upside down, wiggling slowly in a motion that can easily be mistaken as a death throw. No, just the process by which these animals go through the molting process. If you get the chance to see it, it is truly fascinating to watch. With successive sheds, this Tarantula will grow to six inch's in length.
Yes, many of the new world species of Tarantulas are readily handled. Not suggested for the beginner, of course, but with the right technique quite the experience. The two species that are in the photos, are the Mexican Red Leg, and the Mexican Curly Hair. Tarantula's can sting you, but they are not inclined to do so unless threatened. So proper technique is essential. Their sting is not as toxic as a wasp sting. You should certainly be aware of your own personal tolerance to these toxins before ever attempting to handle any Tarantula.
Breeding is a different process with these animals from most. The females will dig and maintain a borrow waiting for food, or a potential mate to wonder by. If it's a potential mate the male still runs the risk of becoming food. The male will usually make a hasty retreat once the mating is completed. However, if he is a little hesitant in making his exit, he will be attacked by the female, killed, and left for food for the babies once they hatch. Once mating is completed, the female leaves the borrow, moves next door to a new borrow to wait for, you're ahead of me here aren't you? That's right, the process continues with the female waiting for either food, or another potential mate. I have not taken my keeping of Tarantulas to the breeding level. I have to admit that I thoroughly enjoy watching, and handling these fascinating creatures, and would always want one of these animals to admire.
Tarantulas, a Complete Introduction - by Al David is an excellent beginners book. Comprehensive on keeping identifying, and breeding. It really is the only book you will need for keeping one of the easier species to house, and feed. It is a readily available TFH publication.

Tortoises, Natural History, Care and Breeding in Captivity - by Jerry G. Walls is a comprehensive guide for Tortoise keeping in general. It is a readily available TFH publication.

Tortoise Trust Guide to Tortoises & Turtles - by A. C. Highfield is another excellent source for Tortoise keeping. This European publication brings another slant to the art of Tortoise keeping.

General Care and Maintenance of Popular Tortoises - from the Herpetocultural Library by Philippe de Vosjoli covers all the larger land Tortoise with excellent attention to housing requirements. I point this out because this is the single most important factor for everyone considering to become a keeper of one of these magnificent larger Tortoises.

Turtles and Tortoises - by R. D. Bartlett and Patricia P. Bartlett is a Barron's publication that is readily available. This makes a good companion book to the above publications covering more of the natural attributes of these animals.

Reptiles Magazine; 12/2000 issue, pages 48 - 59 article by Ed Pirog. Leopard Tortoise article. This is the most recent comprehensive article. It covers all the basic issues of keeping  and breeding these incredible animals in captivity.

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